I understand what you are saying about the tool never reaching the programmed speed on those small moves. Then I am coming back to do the corners at the slower speed. I have found that I am able to get significantly better results by setting the speed very low, 0 RPM! Obviously I am running the tool at a a lot faster speed initially so as not to burn it out. What speeds would you run this operation at? The tool is a single wing, 1" diameter, carbide insert.Īlso is anyone familiar with any parameters on the CNC that may effect the motion on these 3 axis moves? The control is a Syntec 6MB.ģ/20/21 #7: MDF Door- Square Corner problem.
Possibly the 3 axis move just requires more power. So I suspect maybe there is an issue with that. I have noticed quite an improvement when reducing the speed of the corner operation. Where I still have a problem is the corners. I am now getting much better results on the rail where the 2 passes overlap. However after running more test pieces at different angles I couldn't get anything decent and the tool company were quite sure that the insert was good. So I assumed that the tool was the issue as suspected. I have managed to get a little further with this.įirstly I took the tool to another shop and got the same result.
View higher quality, full size image (1754 X 2339)ģ/19/21 #5: MDF Door- Square Corner problem. View higher quality, full size image (1965 X 2620) But I can see it will be up to me to resolve it! I am kind of stuck in the middle here and not really sure what is causing the problem. The better looking one I made some adjustments to the geometry. The worst looking one is using the geometry provided by the tool company. But nonetheless Thursday I am going to take the tool to another shop and test it there as well. I am disinclined to think that the CNC is th problem as if it was i don't think that it would be so consistent on all corners & edges. Some are better than others but so far none is perfect.
I have made a number of programs using different geometry for the tool, different angles & flat on the bottom instead of a point. The guys at Enroute suspect the tool as well.
I have back plotted the code into CAD and verified it that way and it seems the code is good.
My first instinct is that there is a discrepancy between the tool and the DXF supplied to me by the tool company. However the 2 passes on the rail don't seem to line up and it's cutting too much into the corner. I am using Enroute for the CAM side of things and it automatically calculates the 2 passes required to reach the depth I am going & the corner operation based on the tool geometry. included angle carbide insert that comes to a point. I am having trouble with the square corners. It will lose density and shape over time due to usage and shop climate conditions.I have been setting up an MDF door with a beveled profile on the inside of the rails. One more thing: change your foam gasket material annually. The reason: dull blades, which cause the tool to polish material, sealing the board rather than opening it up with a fresh cut.Do not forget to rotate your blades. Try edgebanding the spoilboard, or use a sealer on all four sides to seal the edges to even the vacuum.Īs a technician I often enter a shop only to find flycutter making a high pitch noise like a model airplane. You might notice small pieces near the edge of your spoilboard move more often than pieces in the middle. Take at least 0.5mm off both sides to remove the sealer that comes on all MDF boards.Ĥ. flycutter at 12,000 rpm, run at 25 meters per minute. flycutter with three blades, it should be spinning at 12,000 rpm at 30 meters per minute using a 3-in. Recipes vary but here’s one that hasn’t failed me yet.ġ. The goal is to remove the sealer that comes on every piece of MDF. MDF Spoilboards Spoilboard, sacrificial board, bleeder board whatever you want to call it, you’ve got to prepare the board for use on a CNC bed, to remove the sealer and make it porous so the vacuum will pull through it and hold down the work piece.